This is the flipper assembly (only two flippers shown, it goes on to a third!)

All activated by one solenoid

The first thing to do before removing the flipper assembly is to get a very thin 1/2" wrench. I had to modify one by grinding it thinner.

This is why you need it.

There are two very thin lock nuts to undo to remove the bushing.

The flipper assembly

Exploded view

The flipper assemblies get gummed up on the shaft and rusted at the corners.

Clean and polish the shaft, especially the inside corner and bracket face.

Clean the ID of the bushing and lightly sand the face of the bushing where it contacts the shaft bracket.

The metal insert on the left is oriented as it was originally, the one on the right is turned over. I flipped the inserts over to get a new clean edged slot for engagement with the stud. The original face was dented and worn. This way you don't have to repair anything and you won't have "flipper drag".

This is the top of the brass sleeve and stud that the flipper rests against. To reduce the friction of the metal to metal interface I placed a .010" thick nylon washer over the stud. When the flipper is tightened down it will rest on the nylon washer.

The flipper stud shaft is lubricated with a thin film of silicone before inserting into the sleeve.

This makes a very smooth and low friction flipper assembly.

The flipper links are reassembled using nylon washers in-between them to reduce friction.


Copyright 2007 by Alan Lewis

No copying without written permission from Alan Lewis